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The MG Experience www. Trying new ideas to help the clutch Posted by Dutch Trying new ideas to help the clutch 1. Dutch Mark Holland. The throw-out action is very marginal, but it does work. Would like to improve it from here. One thought is to Mg midget master cyclinder diagram with the very expensive 1" bore Lockheed slave cylinder, will that improve matters?
My shade tree engineering mind says that a smaller slave cylinder bore should create more travel, all other things equal. Is that the case here, and is the slave a "drop in"? I notice it does not use the flex line as the 1" bore slave does. I figure someone has tried this before, curious how it went. Trying new ideas to help the clutch 2.
You could go with the smaller slave, but it's not that simple. That Mg midget master cyclinder diagram you need to fabricate all that as well. Firstly, you must check all your pivot points for wear. If all those bits are original, I can guarantee they are oval. If you end up pulling the engine, make sure you check the fork pivot inside the bell housing. Have someone press the clutch pedal for you and observe movement at the clutch fork.
You should be able to tell if you are not getting the action there in relation to pedal travel. Next, make sure you have the correct length slave push rod. Next, you must be sure that you have ALL the right components for your clutch setup.
It's not unusual over the years that things get mixed and matched incorrectly. There are 3 different throw out bearing and a couple different forks. See this link for details.
Trying new ideas to help the clutch 3. I kept the old pushrod installed for added insurance. Trying new ideas to help the clutch 4. I have pretty much thrown the VB catalog at the issue. I used all sorts of bleeding tricks and all of a sudden the system firmed up nicely.
So I am confident I am at the limits of the system, as it sits, but I am not satisfied with it. The car is low miles 38k and everything looks in good order on the pedal linkage. I would love to know what these two numbers are on properly functioning Midget clutches.
What is really bothering me is that I know these cars weren't delivered with dodgy clutches. Even back in the day, no Mg midget master cyclinder diagram would have put up with it on a new car. I also do not like working the gearbox so hard to complete the shifts, it just seems like an accelerated wear or massive breakdown issue waiting to happen.
Since this issue is so common with these cars, it seems like there should be an area where we can compensate for wear or slight loss of travel in the linkage. Maybe for now people could pipe in with the numbers they are achieving on the linkage. This is how it works. Have your Significant Other fully depress the clutch pedal.
Measure the movement of the rod going from the pedal arm to the clutch master cylinder after removing the cover of the Mg midget master cyclinder diagram that the MC mounts to.
What is that number? Then have your SO do the same thing while you measure the movement of the clutch slave cylinder rod, under the car. If we could build a consensus on a good pair of numbers for properly functioning cars, then troubleshooting would be so much easier. Master throw is too little?
Fix the pedal assembly bushings. Master OK but slave too little? Check for air in the hydraulics, proper lines in good condition, and a properly functioning master cylinder. Both numbers good but still issues?
Then it is the throw out or bearing or something else confined to the bell housing. So especially if your clutch is working properly, those two numbers could really help people in this community narrow down where the clutch problems are showing up on their cars.
Trying new ideas to help the clutch 5. It will work for years.
Many people say Mg midget master cyclinder diagram this just compensates for wear and won't work but it does and has for years for several of us. Trying new ideas to help the clutch 6. Thanks, Bob and Bill. I have looked at extending the slave rod or making it adjustable, but in my case there is no wasted free play in that end of things, so I am not sure it would help my situation.
I got Mg midget master cyclinder diagram drive the car around a lot over the long weekend what primitive fun! I am learning some finesse on shifts and it works ok.
My clutch is marginal but driveable. For those who are having real problems, my measurements taken as described above may be useful to you. If either or both of your numbers are less than that, you can narrow down your search for faults as outlined above.
I am still curious to know the measurements others come up with. Trying new ideas to help the clutch 7. Trying new ideas to help the clutch 8. When acquired one had to be very aggressive in depressing the clutch pedal and engaging first gear.
Sinful mg midget master cyclinder diagram porn clips
Not what I like to do to an elderly English car! I followed a similar process to yours in eliminating release arm pivot wear, air in system, etc.
Rebushed the pedal pivot and pedal arm eye, replaced clevis pins but improvement as unsatisfactory. I recalled from working on the old things when they were new that one did not have such problems so measured the master cylinder push rod travel, then compared that to the the distance which the master cylinder rod could be moved by disconnecting and prying forward.
I determined that the push rod was too short and had a friend weld an extension. It works as intended. Since the car was acquired in this mode it is difficult to conclude the reason although the push rod had no apparent wear to the tip. It does seem that the push rod was from the wrong application unless there is a difference in the master cylnder piston inset in some cases. I could find no evidence of this in Mg midget master cyclinder diagram parts listings but keep hoping that one of those with more exposure Mg midget master cyclinder diagram have the answer.
I did receive many suggestions to the effect that the slave cylinder push rod was too short but clearly this is not correct as it would simply move the slave piston further into the cylinder when at rest. Since the slave piston is not retained into the cylinder on DW's car, a radically too short push rod should allow the piston to be ejected from the cylinder.
Trying new ideas to help the clutch 9. Mark I have a question- How much "free-play" does the clutch peddle have before you feel resistance? Trying new ideas to help the clutch It is only after the compensating port is covered that the master cylinder piston begins to displace fluid and so this is the beginning of the "real" stroke.
One must take care, however, to ensure that the piston returns past the compensating port when the pedal is released or increase in temperature can cause expansion of the trapped fluid and result in incomplete release of the clutch.
Effect will be anywhere from keeping the release bearing engaged resulting in short bearing life to slipping clutch. OK we are sneaking up on the right question without actually asking it. Great question about free play.
So all looks good Mg midget master cyclinder diagram. What does your car have? Then we can move further down the line from there, and hopefully learn more together. I just feel like any other way of tackling the issue, at this point, is like swatting at flies. Gerard, it is obvious that you are experienced in these clutch systems so hoping that you will not misunderstand my intent, which is not to dispute with someone I respect, but rather to clarify the subject.
I hope that you have the time and inclintation to discuss the subject further. The master cylinder piston is captive on the cars which I recall but my sample size is likely smaller than many others here.
The use of a snap ring or other device to prevent the master cylinder piston from leaving the bore is common to most master cylinders in use today, for many reasons but the primary one would be for ease of installation. That said, a captive piston master cylinder allows for much more clearance in the linkage because the piston can't fall out. If one disconnects the Mg midget master cyclinder diagram rod from the pedal and uses a pry to force the Mg midget master cyclinder diagram rod inward applyone can measure the movement which can then be compared with that of the pedal action.
Mark is requesting data for a very logical and useful project. I haven't had time to remove the master cylinder cover to make measurements on DW's for posting but will certainly do so if cannot find my notes.